Ubud travel guide: rice terraces, temples, dance and where to stay

Sleep in Ubud, but choose the edge or the centre deliberately

Ubud was once a small village; today it is a spread-out town of guesthouses, restaurants and spas with villages and rice fields pressing in from every side. The Ministry of Tourism's own advice is the right starting point: stay away from the centre if you came for nature and quiet, and in the centre if you want to be close to the action.

Central Ubud — the streets around the palace, Jalan Monkey Forest and the Padangtegal area — puts the Monkey Forest, the market, Pura Taman Saraswati and the evening dance stages within walking distance. It is also the noisiest part of town and the most affected by traffic.

Sayan and Penestanan, west of the centre towards the Ayung river, and Mas, the carving village, are calmer and greener. The ministry notes that Ubud is hilly, so ask locally which routes are easy on foot; from the edges you will usually need a taxi, a hired car or a scooter to reach town in the evening. Check the exact walk or ride from any hotel before you book it.

One day in town: forest, palace, museums and market

The Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary on Jalan Monkey Forest in Padangtegal is a nature reserve and temple complex that the village regards as a spiritual, economic and conservation centre. When we checked on 3 October 2026, its official site listed daily opening from 9:00 to 18:00 with last entry at 17:00, and admission of IDR 130,000 for adults and IDR 100,000 for children. It describes about a thousand long-tailed macaques and 186 tree species in 12.5 hectares, with three temples, including the main Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal; the temples themselves are for prayer only.

The sanctuary's rules are worth taking seriously: no food or drinks inside, no touching or feeding the monkeys except under staff supervision, avoid staring them in the eye, keep jewellery and small loose objects out of sight, and dress respectfully. If a monkey jumps on you, stay calm and walk slowly. Going at opening time is cooler and calmer than the middle of the day.

From there walk up to Ubud Palace (Puri Saren Agung), the official residence of Ubud's royal family at the central crossroads; part of it is still lived in, but some courtyards are open, and dance performances are often held in the forecourt in the evening. A short walk away, Pura Taman Saraswati stands behind a lotus pond, and the Ubud market sells everyday goods alongside souvenirs and crafts.

Ubud's museums are the best way to understand why the town is linked with Balinese painting. Museum Puri Lukisan traces Balinese art from classical to modern work, including the master I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, along with wood carving. The Neka Art Museum, opened in 1982, includes works by Affandi and Arie Smit. The Blanco Renaissance Museum is the former home and studio of the painter Antonio Blanco, who settled in Ubud in 1952, on the hill at Campuhan. ARMA and Museum Rudana are also on the ministry's list. One or two museums are plenty for one day; check each museum's opening times before you go.

Evenings: legong, barong and kecak

Plan your evenings around a performance, because this is what Ubud does better than anywhere on the coast. Legong is Bali's classical court dance: tightly controlled movements of the hands and fingers, darting eye movements called seledet, gold headdresses and a gamelan orchestra. The ministry says a performance lasts between thirty minutes and an hour.

The barong dance stages the endless struggle between the Barong, a lion-like protective spirit, and Rangda, the demon queen; the ministry names the villagers of Batubulan in Gianyar as among the best-known regular performers. Kecak replaces the gamelan with a chorus of men chanting “cak” as an army of monkeys, in a version of the Ramayana created in the 1930s by the dancer Wayan Limbak with the painter Walter Spies; besides Uluwatu, the ministry lists Pura Dalem Ubud and the Padang Tegal stage among its venues.

Programmes change through the week, and some troupes alternate dances on different nights. Look at the schedule boards and ticket sellers around the palace on your first afternoon and pick one or two nights. On Saturdays and Sundays the Monkey Forest's own open stage also listed Balinese dance at 11:00 and 16:00 when we checked.

Rice fields early: the Campuhan ridge and Tegallalang

Ubud's rice terraces belong to subak, Bali's community-run irrigation system, in which farmers share water through canals and water temples. Subak landscapes in five areas of Bali, including the Pakerisan valley north-east of Ubud, were inscribed together as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2012.

The Campuhan ridge on the western edge of town is the easiest rice-and-valley walk: a wide path along a grassy ridge that local people use for walking and jogging, on the same hill as the Blanco museum. Go at first light, before the heat, and carry water.

Tegallalang, north of town, is the most photographed terrace valley. The ministry puts it about 20 minutes' drive from Ubud, or about two hours on foot, and suggests allowing 30 minutes to an hour and a half to climb down, cross the stream and explore the other side. Expect swings and cafés around the viewpoints; the ministry advises bringing some cash, as local children ask for payment at the “LOVE BALI” swing sign at the entrance. Early morning is the quietest time.

The temple road north-east: Goa Gajah, Tirta Empul and Gunung Kawi

Three of the area's most important sites lie close together between Bedulu and Tampaksiring, so treat them as one half-day by car rather than three separate trips. Goa Gajah, in Bedulu, is a cave thought to date from the 11th century, entered through a carved demon face, with ancient bathing pools outside and both Hindu and Buddhist elements.

Tirta Empul, at Manukaya village in Tampaksiring below the presidential palace, is a spring temple where the water runs through 30 spouts into two purification pools. Visitors of any faith may take part in the melukat cleansing ritual if they do so respectfully; attendants will point out the two spouts reserved for the dead. When we checked, the ministry's page gave a ticket price of IDR 50,000 for adults and IDR 25,000 for children; a sarong is required and can be borrowed at the entrance. Bring a change of clothes if you plan to bathe.

Gunung Kawi, a short way from Tirta Empul in the Pakerisan valley, is a set of shrines carved into the cliff, linked to King Anak Wungsu in the 11th century. The ministry describes about 300 steps down through rice terraces to reach them — and the same steps back up — so do it before the midday heat. All three are active places of worship: cover shoulders and legs, wear the sash or sarong you are given, and keep out of the way of ceremonies.

Crafts, rafting and the villages around Ubud

Mas, a village in the Ubud area, has been known for wood carving since the 1930s. Its galleries and studios line the main road, and the ministry points to the Njana Tilem Museum, with the work of two master carvers, and the Siadja Gallery, as well as about fifteen homestays for those who want to sleep in the village. The Setia Darma house of masks and puppets is also in Gianyar regency.

The Ayung river, at Kedewatan on the Ubud side, is Bali's longest river and the base for white-water rafting. The ministry describes a route of about 10 kilometres taking 1.5 to 2 hours, graded class II–III in the dry season and class IV when the water rises in the rainy season, and says operators generally take participants from 9 to 65 years old. Compare operators' safety briefings and equipment before booking.

For further day trips, sunrise on Mount Batur, the quieter rice villages of Sidemen and the lakes and waterfalls around Munduk are all better reached from Ubud than from the south coast. Each deserves a full day, or a night there.

A workable three-night plan

This is an editorial suggestion, not a timetable. Check opening days for each place and the dance schedule once you arrive.

• Day 1 — Arrival: reach Ubud by mid-afternoon, walk to the palace and the market, check the evening programme and see a dance.
• Day 2 — Town on foot: the Monkey Forest at 9:00, Pura Taman Saraswati, lunch, one or two museums, a second performance or dinner in town.
• Day 3 — Rice and temples: the Campuhan ridge or Tegallalang at first light, then a car to Goa Gajah, Tirta Empul and Gunung Kawi; back in Ubud for a late lunch and a rest.
• Day 4 (optional): Mas and the carvers, rafting on the Ayung, or an early start for Mount Batur, Sidemen or Munduk.

Ceremonies, Nyepi and respectful visits

Temple ceremonies and processions are part of daily life in Ubud: women carrying offerings to the temple are a common sight, and temples are decorated for their anniversary festivals (piodalan). Step aside for processions, do not walk in front of people praying, and do not climb on shrines or walls for photographs.

Nyepi, the Balinese new year, is a day of complete silence across the whole island: the ministry describes the airport closing for 24 hours, traffic stopping, shops shutting and visitors staying inside their hotels, with lights kept low. The date moves each year with the Balinese calendar, so check it before booking an arrival or departure around March. The evening before, villages parade ogoh-ogoh effigies.