Amed guide: East Bali shore snorkelling, Tulamben wreck and where to stay

What 'Amed' means, and which village to sleep in

Strictly, Amed is a single village in Abang district, Karangasem Regency. In tourism use the name covers a stretch of coast of about 14 kilometres that starts at the turn-off at Culik on the main east-coast road and runs east through Amed, Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah, Lehan, Selang, Banyuning and Aas, as Wikipedia and Wikivoyage describe. The road climbs over headlands between small bays, so where you sleep decides which reef is on your doorstep and how often you need transport.

Jemeluk Bay is the obvious first choice for snorkellers: the Ministry of Tourism names it, with Lipah, as the best spot for clear water and coral just a short swim from shore, and dive centres cluster around it. Lipah and Bunutan, a little further east, have a small wooden wreck off the beach and several warung, and are equally good for beach entries. Banyuning and Aas, towards the end of the road, are quieter and close to the so-called Japanese wreck. Tulamben is a separate village about 12 kilometres north-west of Amed village; stay there only if the Liberty wreck is the focus, because there is little else to do.

Plan your transport before you book. Wikivoyage notes that bemos run from Culik towards Aas mainly in the mornings and that public transport is otherwise rare, so most visitors rent a scooter, use a local driver or pick a hotel within walking distance of the reef they want. Beaches are black volcanic sand and pebbles closest to Mount Agung, turning greyer and sandier further east, and fishing boats occupy much of the shore.

Snorkelling and diving along the Amed coast

The reason to come is that the reef starts at the beach. Bali lies inside the Coral Triangle, and the Indonesian Throughflow current running through the Lombok Strait brings nutrients up along this coast, as Wikipedia explains; part of the coast east of Amed has been a marine protected area since 2017. The Ministry of Tourism highlights snorkelling and diving at Jemeluk Bay and Lipah Beach, the artificial reef structures known as the Amed Pyramids, where turtles are often seen, and the Japanese shipwreck at Banyuning, a small sunken vessel close to shore that Wikivoyage describes as signposted, with parking and snorkel rental on site.

Some sites are better from a boat. The ministry's dive page lists Amed Wall about 5 minutes by boat from Amed Beach and Bunutan Point about 10 minutes away. Wikivoyage notes that the wall at Jemeluk drops to around 40 metres after a gentle slope from shore, and that drift dives off Selang and Bunutan generally suit experienced divers only. A jukung trip at dawn combines a snorkel with the sunrise.

Practical points: the ministry advises booking a local guide for deeper sites and using reef-friendly sunscreen. Enter and exit over sand or rubble rather than standing on coral, wear fins rather than walking on the reef, and ask your dive centre or guesthouse about currents on the day, especially at the exposed eastern points.

Tulamben and the USAT Liberty wreck

The USAT Liberty was a United States Army cargo ship torpedoed by the Japanese submarine I-66 south-west of the Lombok Strait on 11 January 1942. Destroyers tried to tow her to Singaraja, but she was taking on too much water and was beached at Tulamben so her cargo could be salvaged. In 1963 the eruption of Mount Agung pushed the hull off the beach and into the sea, where it is now covered in coral, as Wikipedia records.

That history explains why the site is so accessible. The wreck lies on a sand slope a short swim from Tulamben's stony beach, with its highest point at about 5 metres and its deepest at about 30 metres. Snorkellers can see the shallow parts on a calm morning, and the Ministry of Tourism also lists the Coral Garden and the Noisy Reefs, with schooling fish and pelagic species, as Tulamben dive and snorkel sites. Wikipedia notes that up to 100 divers a day may visit the wreck in high season, so start early.

Tulamben's name is usually traced to *batulambih*, 'many stones', a reference to Agung's eruptions, and the beach is large smooth boulders rather than sand: bring reef shoes. Bali's official 2026 calendar of events lists the Tulamben Ocean Harmony Festival in October.

Sunrise, salt pans and village life

Because the bays face east, the Ministry of Tourism recommends Amed for sunrise, with Mount Agung behind you and the sea in front.

Amed is also one of the last places in Bali where sea salt is made by hand. Look for long, shallow wooden troughs on the beach where seawater is left to evaporate in the sun; the ministry lists traditional salt farming among the area's cultural sights. *Uyah Amed* (Amed salt) was added to Indonesia's national list of intangible cultural heritage in 2022. Wikipedia records that salt fields have shrunk as beaches eroded and land went to tourism, so buy a bag directly from a producer if you see one selling by the road.

Walking through the villages, the ministry suggests, is the way to see traditional fishing and the colourful jukung boats up close. Dress modestly in villages and temples; the Bali provincial government also asks visitors not to step on offerings.

Day trips, getting there and how many nights

Two classic East Bali sights are within easy reach. Pura Lempuyang, one of Bali's six Sad Kahyangan Jagad temples, is known for its split gate framing Mount Agung. When we checked on 2026-10-03, the Ministry of Tourism's guide listed visiting hours of 07:00–17:00 WITA, an entrance fee of IDR 100,000 for foreign visitors including a sarong and sash, and an optional shuttle from the car park at IDR 50,000 per person; it advises arriving before 07:00 to avoid the queue for the gate photo, and notes over 1,700 steps if you continue to the upper temples. Tirta Gangga, a royal water garden built in 1948 by the king of Karangasem, Anak Agung Anglurah Ketut Karangasem,, has pools fed by a sacred spring where visitors may swim, according to the ministry. Together they make an easy morning by car.

Mount Agung dominates every view. It is an active volcano that last erupted in 2017–2019; when we checked on 2026-10-03, Indonesia's volcano monitoring agency (MAGMA) listed it at Level I (Normal). The ministry describes three climbing routes, the shortest from Pura Pasar Agung taking about 3–4 hours to the southern crater rim. Climb only with a licensed local guide and check the alert level just before you go. Nearby Seraya village's Gebug Seraya Festival is listed for October in Bali's 2026 calendar.

Getting there: the Ministry of Tourism's listing for a Jemeluk hotel puts Amed about 95 kilometres from Bali's airport, and Wikivoyage calls it a little more than two hours' drive; traffic in the south can add a lot more. When we checked on 2026-10-03, Perama listed a shared shuttle from Kuta, Sanur and Ubud via Padang Bai and Candidasa to Amed (stop at Amed Café Hotel) and Tulamben (Wayan Restaurant). A private car and driver is simpler with luggage and lets you stop at Tirta Gangga on the way. Foreign visitors must pay Bali's tourist levy, IDR 150,000 per person when we checked, through the official Love Bali website.

This is an editorial suggestion, not a timetable:

• Day 1 — Arrive: drive in from the south, a late-afternoon snorkel at Jemeluk or Lipah, and an early dinner at a beach warung.
• Day 2 — Reefs: sunrise from the beach or a jukung, a morning snorkel over the Pyramids or the Japanese wreck, and a slow afternoon.
• Day 3 — Tulamben: an early start at the Liberty wreck before the crowds, then the Coral Garden; back to Amed for the evening.
• Day 4 (optional) — East Bali temples: Lempuyang at opening time and Tirta Gangga on the way back, or onwards to Sidemen.