Southern Thailand · Surat Thani

Koh Phangan travel guide: Haad Rin, Than Sadet and quiet bays

Koh Phangan, north of Samui, is a mountainous island of about 170 square kilometres, according to the Ministry of Tourism and Sports' directory. Its fame comes from the Full Moon Party at Haad Rin, but most of the island is quiet: forested hills in Than Sadet National Park, waterfalls visited by King Rama V, and small bays reached by rough roads or longtail boat.

AsiaVela editorial teamUpdated 1 October 20263 min read

The Haad Rin peninsula of Koh Phangan with beaches on both sides seen from above — Haad Rin from above.

Suggested time: 4–5 nights
Where to stay: Quieter northern or western bays; Haad Rin for parties
Season and timing: January to September is usually driest in the Gulf; heavy rain often falls from October to December.

The short answer

Stay four or five nights. Come to Haad Rin if you want the Full Moon Party, but base yourself in a quieter bay on the north or west coast. Visit Than Sadet waterfall and its royal inscriptions, and take a longtail to an isolated beach. Ferries run from Samui, Surat Thani and Koh Tao.

Haad Rin and the Full Moon Party

Haad Rin, a 2-kilometre semicircular beach about 12 kilometres from the district office, is famous for its nightlife and the Full Moon Party, as the directory describes. It has plenty of accommodation, cafés and water-sports rentals.

If you go to a party, keep your valuables safe, drink water, never accept drinks from strangers and avoid swimming at night.

Than Sadet National Park

Than Sadet – Koh Phangan National Park, once a forest park, covers the island's north–south mountain range, rising to 635 metres at Khao Ra, according to the directory. Its waterfalls flow all year, and there are historical inscriptions of King Rama V.

Bring good shoes; trails are steep and slippery after rain.

Longtail boats moored along the white sand of Haad Rin Sunrise Beach — Haad Rin Sunrise Beach.

A stream tumbling over granite boulders in the forest at Than Sadet — Than Sadet waterfall.

Make time for the local food

What to eat and where to look

Seafood and Thai dishes

Grilled seafood and everyday Thai food at beach restaurants.

Where to look: Restaurants in the bays and at Thong Sala.
Fit it into your day: Dinner by the sea.

Ask about chilli.

Thong Sala market food

Snacks, curries and grilled skewers at the market near the main pier.

Where to look: Thong Sala.
Fit it into your day: A casual dinner.

Stalls vary.

Fresh fruit and smoothies

Tropical fruit and shakes from stalls and cafés.

Where to look: Around the beaches.
Fit it into your day: A snack after swimming.

Choose stalls using clean ice.

Quiet bays

Away from Haad Rin, much of the coast is lined with small, quiet bays. Some are reached only by rough roads or by longtail boat, which keeps them peaceful.

Check road conditions before setting out by scooter.

A statue of King Rama V on a plinth near Than Sadet waterfall — The King Rama V memorial near Than Sadet.

Granite boulders and palms at the edge of Bottle Beach on the north coast of Koh Phangan — Bottle Beach on the north coast of Koh Phangan.

Getting there

The directory notes longtail boats to Haad Rin from Thong Sala and Ban Khai piers, and car ferries from Thong Sala. Ferries also link Koh Phangan with Samui, Koh Tao and Surat Thani on the mainland.

Fly into Samui or Surat Thani and continue by boat.