Southern Thailand · Surat Thani

Khao Sok travel guide: rainforest, Cheow Lan Lake and raft houses

Khao Sok National Park protects the largest tropical rainforest in southern Thailand, according to the Ministry of Tourism and Sports' directory: steep limestone mountains, cliffs and forest feeding the Sok and Pha Saeng streams. In the north, the Ratchaprapha Dam created Cheow Lan Lake, whose turquoise water among karst towers has earned it the nickname 'Thailand's Guilin'. In 2021 the park became an ASEAN Heritage Park.

AsiaVela editorial teamUpdated 1 October 20263 min read

A tall limestone pinnacle rising from the blue water of Cheow Lan Lake — Karst pinnacles on Cheow Lan Lake.

Suggested time: 2–3 nights
Where to stay: Near the park headquarters, plus a raft house on the lake
Season and timing: The drier months from December to April are best for trails; rain makes forest walks muddy and leeches common.

The short answer

Spend two or three nights: one or two near the park headquarters for jungle walks and waterfalls, and one in a raft house on Cheow Lan Lake. Take a longtail boat across the lake, kayak and visit a cave with a guide. Khao Sok lies between Surat Thani and Khao Lak; many visitors come by road from Krabi, Phuket or Surat Thani.

The rainforest

TAT notes that Khao Sok was established in 1980 as Thailand's 22nd national park and covers 738.74 square kilometres in Surat Thani province. It is home to the endangered Malay tapir and the vulnerable mainland serow, and to the giant Rafflesia kerrii flower.

Walk with a licensed guide, wear leech socks in the wet season and keep to trails.

Cheow Lan Lake

Ratchaprapha Dam, originally Cheow Lan Dam, is the second multi-purpose dam in the south; its name means 'Light of the Reign', as the directory explains. The reservoir is surrounded by green mountains and visitors can see the fishermen's way of life.

Longtail boats cross the lake to floating raft houses. Spend a night to see the cliffs at dawn and dusk.

A row of floating raft houses below forested limestone cliffs on Cheow Lan Lake — Raft houses on Cheow Lan Lake.

Morning mist over rainforest and still water at Cheow Lan Lake — Rainforest around Cheow Lan Lake.

Make time for the local food

What to eat and where to look

Raft-house meals

Thai meals served at floating restaurants on Cheow Lan Lake, often including lake fish.

Where to look: Raft houses on the lake.
Fit it into your day: Lunch and dinner on the lake night.

Simple menus; bring snacks.

Southern Thai curries

Spicy curries and stir-fries in the village near the park headquarters.

Where to look: Restaurants near the park entrance.
Fit it into your day: Dinner after a jungle walk.

Ask about chilli.

Fresh fruit

Bananas, rambutan and other fruit from local farms.

Where to look: Village shops and stalls.
Fit it into your day: Trail snacks.

Seasonal.

Waterfalls and caves

Trails from the park headquarters lead along the Sok river to waterfalls such as Ton Kloi and Tha Sawan, both listed in the directory.

Caves around the lake are visited on guided walks; some flood in heavy rain, so follow your guide's advice.

The embankment of Ratchaprapha Dam and its reservoir under an evening sky — Ratchaprapha (Cheow Lan) Dam.

The huge red-and-white speckled flower of Rafflesia kerrii on the forest floor — Rafflesia kerrii near Khao Sok.

Getting there

Khao Sok lies off the road between Surat Thani and Takua Pa. Buses and minibuses link it with Surat Thani, Khao Lak, Phuket and Krabi; day tours from Krabi and Khao Lak also visit the lake.

Surat Thani Airport and Phuket are the nearest airports.