Ratchaburi travel guide: Damnoen Saduak, shadow puppets and caves

Damnoen Saduak: go early

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market runs along a network of canals off the Mae Klong River, about 80 kilometres from Bangkok. The Ministry of Tourism and Sports' directory recommends arriving around 7:00, when many vendors are rowing boats loaded with fruit, snacks and souvenirs, and lists opening from 6:00 to midday.

TAT notes that the market was criticised for overtourism in the past but has recovered and now feels more like a working market serving local customers. Mornings are still busiest with tour groups from about mid-morning; staying nearby lets you arrive before them. Agree the boat price and route before you board, and check prices before buying from passing boats.

Wat Khanon and the Nang Yai shadow puppets

Wat Khanon in Photharam district preserves Nang Yai, the large shadow-puppet theatre in which carved hide figures from the Ramayana are held against a lit screen. The directory and TAT describe a museum in a traditional Thai house with 313 puppets, a collection begun in the reign of King Rama V, and an award in 2007 from the Asia/Pacific Cultural Centre for UNESCO (ACCU) for safeguarding the tradition.

The directory lists the temple as open from 8:00 to 17:30. Performances are not held every day; check in advance if you want to see one, and allow time to watch the craftsmen who carve and repair the figures.

Ratchaburi town and its museum

Ratchaburi town lies on the Mae Klong River and was an important trading centre in the Dvaravati period, according to TAT. The Ratchaburi National Museum, in the former city hall of 1922 near the clock tower, covers the province's archaeology, geology and the cultures of its Tai Dam, Karen and Tai Yuan communities; the directory notes that it closes on Mondays, Tuesdays and public holidays.

Ratchaburi is also known for its glazed dragon jars (ong mangkon), made in the town's potteries. Some workshops welcome visitors; ask at your hotel which ones are open.

Caves, waterfalls and the hills of Suan Phueng

TAT highlights the province's natural side: Tham Chom Phon cave, named by King Rama V in 1895 for its stalactites and housing a reclining Buddha; the nine-level Khao Chan waterfall; and the forests of Chaloem Phrakiat Thai Prachan National Park.

Just outside town, Khao Ngu Stone Park turns a former limestone quarry into a park of lakes and cliffs. The directory notes Dvaravati-period Buddha images in Ruesi cave there, including a seated Buddha with an inscription at its feet. Watch for monkeys around the park.

To the west, Suan Phueng district rises towards the Myanmar border, with cool-season resorts, farms and viewpoints popular with Thai weekenders. It is spread out and needs a car; plan it as its own overnight rather than an add-on to Damnoen Saduak.

Getting there and around

Damnoen Saduak is reached by road from Bangkok, by minivan, taxi or tour. Ratchaburi town is on the southern railway line and on the main road to the south; check the State Railway of Thailand timetable for trains from Bangkok.

Between Damnoen Saduak, Wat Khanon, Ratchaburi town and Suan Phueng there is little useful public transport for visitors. Hire a car or driver for the day, or join a tour.