Maisan guide: Tapsa's stone towers and the horse-ear peaks from Jeonju

How Maisan works: two entrances, one pass

Maisan has two front doors, and choosing between them shapes the day. The north entrance is the Maisan tourist complex in Danyang-ri, Jinan-eup, a short ride from Jinan's bus stop; the south entrance is at Dongchon-ri, Maryeong-myeon, where the road continues as a cherry-lined walk past Tapyeongje lake and Geumdangsa to Tapsa. Jinan County notes that the southern road is closed to ordinary cars, so from the south car park you walk.

Between the two lies Cheonhwangmun, the saddle between the two peaks, which the county describes as the watershed between the Geum and Seomjin rivers and the pass you must cross to go from one side to the other. Eunsusa sits just below it on the south side, and Tapsa a short way further down. The county counts about 80 per cent of visitors on the north-to-south walk through Tapsa, about 15 per cent climbing Ammaibong and the rest on the ridge paths. Its trail figures make the choice simple.

• Classic crossing: north car park, Cheonhwangmun, Eunsusa, Tapsa, Tapyeongje, Geumdangsa, south car park; 3.3 km, 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours (Jinan County). Reverse it to go south to north.
• With the Ammaibong summit: north car park, Cheonhwangmun, Ammaibong, back to Cheonhwangmun, Eunsusa and Tapsa, then back to the north car park (5.3 km, 2 hours 50 minutes to 3 hours 30 minutes) or down to the south car park (3.9 km, 2 hours 30 minutes to 3 hours).
• Southern ridge to Tapsa: south car park, Gogeumdang, Biryongdae viewpoint (527 m) and Bongdubong (540 m) to Tapsa; 3.5 km, about 2 hours 20 minutes.
• Maintained geology trail: south car park over Biryongdae and Bongdubong to Tapsa, Eunsusa and Cheonhwangmun to the north car park; 5.7 km, 3 hours 30 minutes to 4 hours. The county says it has been upgraded so that older walkers and children can use it.
• Long ridge from Gwangdaebong (609 m): from Hammi fortress or Boheungsa, 5.4–8.4 km to Tapsa; the county warns that Gwangdaebong needs ropes and is for experienced hikers.

Tapsa: the stone towers under Ammaibong

Tapsa is what most people come for. VisitKorea describes more than 80 stone pagodas, each with its own name and role, built of natural stone and ranging from 1 m to 13.5 m high, from cones to slender single columns; the two tallest, a pair behind the main hall (Daeungjeon), stand about three times the height of an adult. Jinan County calls the topmost tower, Cheonjitap, the principal one, and points out what makes the site uncanny: the stones are not glued, mortared or notched into each other, yet the towers have stood through typhoons strong enough to uproot trees. A VisitKorea column last updated in December 2025 puts their age at over 100 years.

The towers fill a narrow strip at the foot of Ammaibong's cliff, so the site is busy in a small space. Walk the paths between the towers slowly and do not touch or lean on them. Look up at the cliff above as well: VisitKorea describes the honeycomb hollows of tafoni on Ammaibong's southern face, thought to date from an Ice Age and shaped by frost, and Jinan County calls Maisan's tafoni the largest in the world, the reason the area became a national geopark in 2019.

Tapsa collects the fee. When we checked on 2026-10-03, VisitKorea listed 3,000 won for adults, 2,000 won for teenagers and 1,000 won for children, with group rates for 30 or more. Jinan County explains that the park itself is free, and that Tapsa, as owner of the heritage site, sells tickets at both the north and south approaches and charges anyone who walks through, including hikers heading for Ammaibong; if you do not want to visit, the county asks you to take a detour.

Eunsusa and the climb up Ammaibong

Eunsusa, just below the pass, is the closest you can get to both peaks. VisitKorea and the county tell the same story of the name: King Taejo, founder of the Joseon dynasty, found the water here as clear as silver. The county adds that Taejo prayed here for a hundred days and planted the Cheongsil pear tree in the courtyard, now about 650 years old and Natural Monument No. 386, and that the temple's Taegeukjeon hall shows his dream of receiving a golden ruler. VisitKorea also mentions a huge Buddhist drum made in 1982 and a climbing euonymus, Natural Monument No. 380, which the county says is at the northern limit of its range. The county holds its Maisan mountain-spirit rite at the altar behind the temple each year on 11 October.

From Cheonhwangmun a separate path climbs Ammaibong, the higher of the two peaks. The county adds 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes for the summit and closes the path in winter and in fog or rain; its trail list has no route up Sumaibong. Hwaeomgul, the cave below Sumaibong whose spring is said to bring sons, is closed because of rockfall, the county says. Rock climbing anywhere in the park is banned, and so are pets, under the Natural Parks Act.

Tapyeongje, Geumdangsa and the cherry road from the south

Coming from or going to the south entrance, you pass two quieter stops. Tapyeongje, an artificial lake about 1 km above the south car park, frames Bongdubong and Ammaibong behind it; beside it stands a monument to the Joseon poet couple Ha Rip and Lady Kim Samuidang, who the county says were born in the same village on the same day. Further down, Geumdangsa was rebuilt on its present site in 1675 and keeps a stone pagoda that the county attributes to the Goryeo period, with only three roof stones left.

In spring this stretch is the 2.5 km cherry-blossom tunnel from the south entrance to Tapsa, which the county says draws crowds in April. The pedal boats on the lake and the small 'Mai train' are private businesses; the county notes that the train runs only on the Lovers' Road at the north side and does not go to Tapsa, so you still walk the last part via Cheonhwangmun.

A workable day from Jeonju

This is an editorial plan built on Jinan County's published bus times, not a timetable. Check the times at Jinan before you rely on a connection.

• Morning: intercity bus from Jeonju to Jinan. When we checked on 2026-10-03, the county's Maisan site listed departures from Jeonju between 06:05 and 21:05, about 40 minutes.
• To the north entrance: the county's local-bus page listed Jinan to North Maisan (5.0 km) at 07:30 and then hourly from 08:20 to 18:20, 12 runs a day. A taxi is the alternative; the county lists Jinan taxi and call-taxi numbers.
• On foot: north car park, Cheonhwangmun, Eunsusa and Tapsa; add Ammaibong if it is open and you have the legs.
• Back: retrace your steps to the north car park (2.5 km from Tapsa, says the county) for the hourly bus, which the county listed at 07:40 and then 08:30 to 18:30. Or walk on to the south car park; buses from South Maisan to Jinan were listed at only 09:55, 12:50, 14:05, 17:15 and 19:00.
• Evening: bus from Jinan back to Jeonju; the county listed departures from 06:50 to 21:30, every 10 to 60 minutes.

Getting there: Jeonju, Seoul and the airport

Jeonju is the practical hub. Jinan County lists intercity buses between Jeonju and Jinan through the day, and the Jinan tourism site's timetable counted 45 daily departures from Jinan to Jeonju when we checked. From Seoul, the county gives two routes: an express bus from Central City (Honam line) to Jeonju, about 2 hours 30 minutes, then the bus to Jinan; or a direct bus from Central City to Jinan, which it listed at 10:10 and 15:10 (about 3 hours 30 to 3 hours 43 minutes), returning from Jinan at 10:30 and 14:35. VisitKorea's bus guide confirms that Jinan is served from Central City Express Bus Terminal.

By rail, the county's suggested route ends at Jeonju Station, from where you continue by road. Visit Jeonju gives the KTX from Seoul to Jeonju at about 1 hour 40 minutes. Drivers can use the north or south car parks; the county's FAQ describes park parking as free, while VisitKorea listed parking at the Maisan tourist resort at 2,000 won for cars, so be ready for either.

Guided option: VisitKorea's December 2025 list of featured K-culture tours included a 10-hour Jeonju Hanok Village and Maisan Tapsa day tour run by Dream Journey Korea. It suits travellers who want both places in one day without bus connections; check the departure point, the time at Tapsa and whether the fee is included.