Northeast Thailand (Isan) · Udon Thani

Udon Thani travel guide: the Red Lotus Sea and Ban Chiang

Udon Thani is a busy northern Isan city with a good airport, and the base for three very different sights: the Red Lotus Sea, where millions of pink water lilies bloom on a lake in the cool season; Ban Chiang, one of the most important prehistoric sites in Southeast Asia; and Phu Phrabat, a landscape of strange rock formations with ancient paintings.

AsiaVela editorial teamUpdated 1 October 20263 min read

Lily pads and scattered water lilies stretching across Nong Han lake under a wide cloudy sky — The Red Lotus Lake at Kumphawapi, outside peak bloom.

Suggested time: 2 days
Where to stay: Udon Thani city
Season and timing: December to February for the Red Lotus Sea, according to the directory; TAT gives November to February.

The short answer

Spend two days. Take an early boat on the Red Lotus Sea (December to February, between about 6:00 and 11:00), visit Ban Chiang National Museum (Wednesday to Sunday), and give a half day to Phu Phrabat's rock formations. Udon Thani Airport has flights from Bangkok; Nong Khai and the Mekong lie to the north.

The Red Lotus Sea

From roughly November to February, the shallow lake of Nong Han at Kumphawapi, about 40 kilometres from the city, turns pink with millions of water lilies — the Red Lotus Sea, or Talay Bua Daeng, as TAT describes it. The best time is the morning, from about 6:00 to 11:00, before the flowers close in the sun.

Little can be seen from the shore, so hire a boat: TAT describes trips of about 45 to 90 minutes, with larger boats for around eight people and smaller ones that can go further into the blooms. Check that the season is on before you go — it varies year to year.

Ban Chiang

The Ban Chiang National Museum stands on the archaeological site of Ban Chiang, which the Ministry of Tourism and Sports' directory describes as one of the most important prehistoric sites in north-east Thailand and Southeast Asia. Its displays of pottery, tools and utensils give a glimpse of human life more than 5,000 years ago.

The directory lists the museum as open Wednesday to Sunday. Ban Chiang is inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List; allow half a day including the drive.

Prehistoric red-painted Ban Chiang pottery displayed in an excavation pit at the museum — Ban Chiang pottery in the museum's excavation display.

Pottery and remains exposed in an excavation pit at the Ban Chiang archaeological site — The excavations at Ban Chiang.

Make time for the local food

What to eat and where to look

Isan staples

Som tam, larb, grilled chicken and sticky rice, as across the north-east.

Where to look: Restaurants and night markets in Udon Thani.
Fit it into your day: Dinner after a day out.

Spicy; may contain pla ra.

Modern Isan tasting menus

TAT highlights Samuay & Sons in Udon Thani, whose chef reinterprets Isan food with local, foraged ingredients.

Where to look: Michelin-recommended restaurants in the city.
Fit it into your day: A special dinner; book ahead.

Check opening days.

Night market snacks

Grilled skewers, sticky rice and sweets from the city's evening markets.

Where to look: Night markets in the city centre.
Fit it into your day: A casual dinner.

Stalls vary by day.

Phu Phrabat

In Ban Phue district, Phu Phrabat is known for its unusual rock formations, around which religious shrines were built, and for prehistoric rock paintings, as the directory describes; the Fine Arts Department established the historical park in 1991.

Wear good shoes and bring water; the trails among the rocks are exposed in the heat.

A mushroom-shaped sandstone rock formation on a flat rock outcrop among trees at Phu Phrabat — Rock formations at Phu Phrabat.

Faded red prehistoric paintings on a rock shelter wall at Tham Khon, Phu Phrabat — Rock paintings at Tham Khon, Phu Phrabat.

Getting there and around

Udon Thani Airport has flights from Bangkok, and the city is on the north-eastern railway. The sights are spread out, so hire a car or driver, or join a local tour for the Red Lotus Sea.

Nong Khai and the Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge are a short trip to the north.