Northeast Thailand (Isan) · Nakhon Phanom

Nakhon Phanom travel guide: Phra That Phanom and the boats of fire

Nakhon Phanom is a quiet Mekong town looking across the river to the limestone hills of Laos. It is home to one of the most revered stupas in the region, Phra That Phanom, and, once a year, to one of Isan's great spectacles: the Illuminated Boat Procession, which TAT has made one of its three Signature Thailand Events.

AsiaVela editorial teamUpdated 1 October 20263 min read

The tall white-and-gold stupa of Wat Phra That Phanom behind its gate under a dramatic sky — Wat Phra That Phanom, That Phanom district.

Suggested time: 2 nights
Where to stay: Nakhon Phanom riverside
Season and timing: The Illuminated Boat Procession is held around Ok Phansa, usually October; November to February is coolest.

The short answer

Stay two nights. Cycle the riverside promenade and visit the Naga monument at sunset, make the trip south to Wat Phra That Phanom (open 5:00–20:00 according to the directory), and visit Ho Chi Minh's house at Ban Na Chok. Come around Ok Phansa, usually in October, for the Illuminated Boat Procession. Nakhon Phanom has an airport with flights from Bangkok.

Wat Phra That Phanom

In That Phanom district, Wat Phra That Phanom is a towering white-and-gold stupa said to enshrine a relic of the Buddha's breastbone, as TAT describes; it draws pilgrims from both sides of the Mekong. The Ministry of Tourism and Sports' directory gives its height as 53 metres, with a 4-metre gold finial, 57 metres in all.

The directory lists opening hours of 5:00 to 20:00. Dress modestly and walk around the stupa clockwise.

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Choose a stay that fits this visit

A well-placed room in Nakhon Phanom riverside / That Phanom leaves more time for the neighbourhoods and meals described here. Compare the actual journey from the hotel to your first stop, rather than choosing by price alone.

Nakhon Phanom riverside — on or near the Mekong promenade.
That Phanom — close to the great stupa.

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The Illuminated Boat Procession

Around Wan Ok Phansa, at the end of the rainy-season retreat, the Mekong becomes a ribbon of light. TAT describes towering boats of bamboo, paper, cloth and thousands of lights — Naga serpents, temples and scenes from Buddhist legend — built by riverside communities and set alight to drift downstream: the Lai Ruea Fai.

Its origins lie in offerings to the Buddha and to the Naga, and in sending bad luck away with the current. Hotels fill early; book well ahead.

The walled compound of Wat Phra That Phanom with its golden spire and a wide forecourt — The approach to Wat Phra That Phanom.

Close view of the gilded upper tiers of the That Phanom stupa against a blue sky — The upper tiers of Phra That Phanom.

Make time for the local food

What to eat and where to look

Grilled Mekong fish

TAT recommends grilled river fish seasoned with herbs and lime, with sticky rice.

Where to look: Riverside markets and restaurants in town.
Fit it into your day: Dinner on the promenade.

Fish bones; prices often by weight.

Koi pla and tom saep

A spicy minced-fish salad and a sour-spicy Isan soup, as TAT describes.

Where to look: Local Isan restaurants and night stalls.
Fit it into your day: Share with sticky rice and grilled chicken.

Koi pla may be made with raw fish; ask for cooked.

Vietnamese-influenced dishes

Fresh spring rolls and nem nuang grilled pork skewers, a legacy of the town's Vietnamese community, according to TAT.

Where to look: Night stalls and markets in town.
Fit it into your day: A light lunch or snack.

Contains pork; sauces may contain peanuts.

The riverside town

In town, TAT recommends renting a bicycle to ride the Mekong promenade, with the hills of Laos across the water. The golden Naga Monument on the riverfront is a favourite spot for sunrise and sunset photos.

At Ban Na Chok, you can visit the house where Ho Chi Minh once lived in exile.

The paved riverside promenade of Nakhon Phanom with lamps and benches beside the Mekong — The Mekong promenade in Nakhon Phanom.

Across the river

The Third Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge links Nakhon Phanom with Thakhek in Khammouan Province, TAT notes, opening the way to the caves and karst landscapes of central Laos.

You need the proper border formalities and visa to cross. Check current rules.