Northeast Thailand (Isan) · Nong Khai

Nong Khai travel guide: Mekong sunsets, Sala Kaew Ku and naga fireballs

Nong Khai is a laid-back town on the Mekong, facing Laos across the water. Its riverfront is made for slow evenings, and its most famous sight is one of Thailand's strangest: a park of giant concrete sculptures of gods and demons. Once a year, at the end of Buddhist Lent, crowds gather on the banks to watch for the mysterious naga fireballs.

AsiaVela editorial teamUpdated 1 October 20263 min read

Giant concrete sculptures of a many-headed naga, Buddhas and deities in the gardens of Sala Kaew Ku — Sala Kaew Ku sculpture park, Nong Khai.

Suggested time: 1–2 nights
Where to stay: Riverside, Nong Khai town
Season and timing: November to February is coolest; Ok Phansa, the end of Buddhist Lent, usually falls in October.

The short answer

Stay one or two nights. Visit Sala Kaew Ku sculpture park (open daily 6:00–18:00 according to the directory), Wat Phra That Bang Phuan outside town and Tha Sadet Market by the river, and spend the evenings on the Mekong promenade. If you can, come for Ok Phansa, when TAT describes crowds watching for the naga fireballs. Fly to Udon Thani and continue north.

Sala Kaew Ku

Sala Kaew Ku, also called Thewalai Park and known locally as Wat Khaek, is a garden of giant religious sculptures that, according to the Ministry of Tourism and Sports' directory, represents the land of liberation from all passions. Towering Buddhas, Hindu deities and many-headed nagas fill the grounds.

The directory lists it as open every day, 6:00 to 18:00. It lies on the road east of town towards Phon Phisai; come in the late afternoon light.

Wat Phra That Bang Phuan

Outside town, Wat Phra That Bang Phuan is an important relic temple. The directory notes that it is said to be the only place where seven ancient monuments representing the Satta Maha Sathan — the seven places where the Buddha spent a week each after his enlightenment — still survive together.

Dress modestly. A car or tuk-tuk is the easiest way there.

Rows of concrete figures draped with colourful scarves and garlands at Sala Kaew Ku — Sculptures hung with offerings at Sala Kaew Ku.

The riverside promenade of Nong Khai beside the wide brown Mekong under clouds — The Mekong promenade in Nong Khai.

Make time for the local food

What to eat and where to look

Mekong river fish

Grilled or steamed fish from the river, served with herbs and chilli dips at riverside restaurants.

Where to look: Restaurants along the Mekong promenade.
Fit it into your day: Dinner at sunset.

Fish bones; prices often by weight.

Isan salads

Som tam and larb with sticky rice.

Where to look: Local restaurants in town.
Fit it into your day: Lunch after Sala Kaew Ku.

May contain pla ra.

Market snacks

Snacks and sweets from Tha Sadet Market and evening stalls.

Where to look: Tha Sadet Market (7:00–18:30) and the riverfront.
Fit it into your day: A light lunch while shopping.

Stalls vary.

The riverfront and Tha Sadet Market

By the river, Tha Sadet Market grew up around the old ferry crossing to Laos, as the directory explains, and still sells goods from China, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand. It is open from 7:00 to 18:30.

In the evening, walk the Mekong promenade as the sun goes down over the water and riverside restaurants fill up.

A longtail boat on the Mekong at Nong Khai under a cloudy evening sky — Evening on the Mekong.

Naga fireballs and Ok Phansa

On the night of Ok Phansa, the end of Buddhist Lent, people gather on Nong Khai's riverbanks to watch for the naga fireballs (bang fai phaya nak) — reddish orbs of light that, as TAT describes, rise silently from the Mekong. Science offers explanations; for locals they are offerings from the naga to the Buddha.

TAT notes that illuminated boat processions are also held in Nong Khai and Nakhon Phanom around the same full moon. Book accommodation well in advance for these dates.

The concrete Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge crossing the Mekong at Nong Khai — The Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.

Getting there

Nong Khai is on the north-eastern railway, and the Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge crosses the Mekong here towards Vientiane. The nearest airport is Udon Thani, to the south.

Crossing into Laos requires the proper border formalities and visa; check current rules.